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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. However, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The accolade has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble shop securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary triumph.